Kandy is a bustling city located in Central Sri Lanka, most commonly known amongst travellers for the train journey from Kandy to Ella. This train journey is famous for stunning scenery through mountainous rainforest and tea plantations alike and is the reason we visited Kandy. As the journey to Ella takes 8 hours we advise one night in Kandy before getting the train the next day.
It is important to be aware that, much like Colombo, there are problems with tuktuks in Kandy. We chose to walk everywhere as if you are staying centrally the city is very walkable. If you need to use a tuktuk we recommend you only use tuktuks booked through Uber or PickMe for an added level of safety and a pre-arranged price.
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Getting to Kandy
Sigiriya to Kandy
Prior to Kandy we visited Sigiriya. This posed a challenge for transport options as there is no train connection. This left our options as a public bus or a private taxi. Whilst the public bus would have been significantly cheaper we decided due to our large backpacks that a taxi would be easier. We booked a taxi through Sigiriya Taxi Cabs as we could pre-book this online. This cost 12000 LKR (~£32) for a 2 and a half hour journey.
It is worth noting that the journey from Sigiriya to Kandy winds through hilly terrain and may be difficult for those with travel sickness if unprepared. Ensure to take your usual precautions if you get travel sick and consider spending more on a taxi as a hot, cramped bus may make your sickness worse.
Colombo to Kandy
If you are visiting Kandy from Colombo, the train is the most efficient mode of transport. There are a number of trains available including Express train, Intercity Express train or luxury tourist trains such as the Duhinda Odyssey. Ticket prices for 2025 vary according to the train type and seat type but range from 900 – 2000 LKR (~£2.50 – £5.50) for the regular trains or 3000 – 6000 LKR (~£8 – £16) for the tourist train. As with all train tickets in Sri Lanka, tickets can be purchased directly from the Sri Lankan Railway website 30 days before travel or with a travel company such as 12Go Asia (who take advanced reservations).
Where to stay in Kandy
Staying centrally and near to the train station is the best choice for getting the train the next morning. We stayed in a well-rated budget hotel however it was up a hill and involved a 20 minute walk with our heavy luggage to the station. Staying centrally also puts you within walking distance of the main attractions and restaurants. We booked most of our accommodation in Sri Lanka through Agoda. For those wanting to spend a bit more or to take advantage of hotel/credit card loyalty schemes there is a Radisson hotel in Kandy (note that it is usually cheapest through Agoda or Trip than it is directly but you will not gain Radisson points if booking through a third party).
Things to do in Kandy
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa)
The temple is the top attraction in the city and it is located in the centre of Kandy. The temple houses the Sacred Tooth Relic which is said to be one of Buddha’s teeth. It is a very peaceful space amongst the busy and bustling city and well worth visiting. The temple is a famous Buddhist pilgrimage site and holds immense cultural and religious significance. In 1988, the temple and the Sacred City of Kandy were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is one of the few temples in Sri Lanka that has an entrance fee which is 2000 LKR (~£5.50) unless you are a visitor from SAARC countries, Thailand or Myanmar in which case tickets are 1500 LKR. Tickets are only available onsite and cannot be purchased elsewhere so be cautious of people offering you tickets outside the temple gates. You may also find some people offering tour guide services for an additional fee at the gate.
Make sure to dress appropriately and bring socks for walking on the hot ground. You will need small cash for the shoe and luggage store. Three times a day, the monks perform a ritual in which the tooth relic and the stupah it is housed in are moved from the downstairs to an upstairs viewing area. This happens at 5.30-7am, 9.30-11am and 6.30-8pm each day.
Just before the exit there is a hall called the New Shrine Room with many marble Buddha statues. Within this hall the story of how the tooth relic came to be in Kandy is available to read in English.
Arthur’s Seat viewpoint
Located around 10 minutes walk from the Kandy City Centre shopping mall, Arthur’s Seat View Point overlooks the city and the lake. The walk is steep but achievable as it is less than a kilometre from the mall. From this viewpoint you can also see Bahiravokanda Vihara Buddha Statue in the distance. This Buddha statue is one of the tallest in the country at 88ft/26m tall. To reach Arthur’s Seat viewpoint you can either walk along the road or take a shortcut through the Royal Palace Park but be aware this park does have an entry fee.
Kandy Lake
The walk around the lake is approximately 2.5-3km depending on whether you walk the footpath or along the road. The lake is a opportunity to find peace in the hectic city and to look for Sri Lankan wildlife during your walk. The loop will bring you along next to the Temple of The Sacred Tooth Relic and the shopping mall. During our visit there was many sellers on the lake front selling flowers for the temple and other items.
Cultural dance
Each evening there are numerous performances of traditional Sri Lankan dance. If you wish to attend be sure to purchase tickets through a legitimate source such as your hotel. Whilst walking around Kandy many people in the street will offer you tickets but we cannot be sure if these are genuine.
Where to eat in Kandy
Our time in Kandy was limited and we therefore only had a couple of meals in the city however there are a couple of highlights to note. Soul Food, a small vegetarian and vegan restaurant, serves a sensational smoothie bowl for 1900 LKR (~£5). Island Cream is a coffee shop and ice cream parlour that would be a perfect spot to relax, work remotely or do some trip-planning. Ice creams are served either in cones, cups or half coconut shells. Ice cream flavours vary but may include mango chilli, Ceylon vanilla, salted pineapple to name a few. For our main meal we chose to eat in the Worldspice food court of the KCC mall in order to keep our spending down. The food court has numerous outlets providing different cuisines (Indian, Chinese, Thai, Italian) and we can highly recommend the Paneer Makhani (1450 LKR ~£4). At the base of the KCC mall is a Keells supermarket which is a perfect opportunity to explore a local supermarket and stock up on snacks for your train journey to Ella.
Top tip in Kandy!
If you find yourself needing to top up your available cash, there are a number of banks and ATMs in the basement of the KCC mall. We were able to withdraw fee-free using our Chase Mastercards from People’s Bank and Bank of Ceylon. We highly recommend downloading the app ‘ATM fee saver’ for your trip.
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